Nickel Release in Jewellery: UK REACH

What is the nickel release limit?

UK REACH restricts the amount of nickel that may be released from articles intended for direct and prolonged contact with skin. There are two limits:

• 0.5 μg/cm²/week for items in prolonged contact with the skin, such as earrings, necklaces, bracelets, anklets, rings, watch cases, watch straps, and belt buckles.
• 0.2 μg/cm²/week for items inserted into pierced body parts during the healing period, such as earring posts and body piercing jewellery.

These limits are not about the total nickel content of the metal. An item can contain nickel in its alloy and still be fully compliant, provided it does not release nickel above the permitted rate during wear. Conversely, an item marketed as "nickel free" could still breach the limit if its coating wears through and exposes a nickel-releasing layer underneath.

The restriction applies to all jewellery sold in the course of trade. There is no exemption for handmade items, small businesses, or craft fair sales. The rules are the same whether you sell from a market stall, a shop, or an online platform.

Which items are covered?

The restriction covers any article intended for direct and prolonged contact with the skin. In practice, this includes:

• Earrings (all types, including clip-ons and ear cuffs)
• Necklaces, pendants, and chains
• Bracelets, bangles, and anklets
• Rings
• Brooches and pins that rest against clothing but may contact skin
• Watch cases, backs, and straps
• Belt buckles
• Hair accessories that touch the skin (such as metal hair clips worn against the scalp)
• Body piercing jewellery

Clothing fasteners, such as rivets, buttons, and zip pullers, are also covered if they come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin. Glasses frames and components that contact the skin fall within scope as well.

Items that do not normally contact skin (such as a purely decorative wall-hung piece) are outside the restriction, but the moment an item is designed to be worn against the body, it is covered.

Safe materials: what you can use with confidence

Certain metals and alloys are well established as safe choices that will not breach the nickel release limit:

• Surgical stainless steel (grade 316L): the most widely used material for hypoallergenic findings. Its chromium-rich oxide layer prevents nickel from leaching out, even though the alloy contains nickel.
• Titanium: naturally nickel-free and highly biocompatible. An excellent choice for earring posts and body jewellery.
• Niobium: another naturally nickel-free metal, popular with jewellers because it can be anodised to produce colours without coatings.
• Solid gold (9ct and above): most solid gold alloys above 9ct contain little or no nickel. White gold is the exception; some white gold alloys use nickel as a whitening agent, so check with your supplier. Palladium-based white gold is nickel-free.
• Platinum: nickel-free.
• Sterling silver (925): standard sterling silver does not contain nickel and is safe. Be cautious with silver-plated items, where the base metal underneath may release nickel if the plating wears.
• Argentium silver: a modern sterling alloy that is nickel-free and tarnish-resistant.

When sourcing findings (ear wires, clasps, jump rings, pin backs), specify nickel-free or surgical steel. Many bead and findings suppliers now label their products clearly, but always check the material specification rather than relying on vague descriptions like "hypoallergenic" (which has no legal definition in the UK).

Risky materials: what to watch out for

Some materials commonly used in craft jewellery are more likely to breach the nickel release limit:

• Nickel silver (also called German silver): despite the name, this alloy typically contains 10 to 25% nickel and no silver at all. It is widely used in cheap findings, sheet metal, and wire. It will almost certainly exceed the release limit and should be avoided for any skin-contact jewellery.
• Base metal findings of unknown composition: cheap unbranded findings (especially those sourced from unregulated marketplaces) frequently contain nickel. If the supplier cannot confirm the composition, do not use them for skin-contact items.
• Plated items where the plating may wear through: a nickel-containing base metal coated with rhodium, gold, or silver plating may be compliant when new but breach the limit once the plating wears thin. The thinner the plating, the sooner this happens. If you use plated findings, check that the base metal is also compliant, or ensure the plating meets a minimum thickness that will survive normal wear.
• Some brass alloys: certain brass formulations contain small amounts of nickel. Most standard yellow brass (Cu-Zn) is nickel-free, but check the specification, particularly for imported brass components.
• Pewter: modern lead-free pewter is generally nickel-free, but always confirm with your supplier.

The safest approach is to build a short list of trusted suppliers whose materials you have verified, and to keep records of the material specifications for everything you use.

Testing and certification

The standard tests for nickel release compliance are:

• EN 12472: a simulated wear and corrosion test. The item is subjected to artificial sweat and abrasion to simulate extended wear. This is particularly important for coated or plated items, because it reveals whether the coating will protect the wearer over the life of the product.
• EN 1811: the nickel release measurement itself. After the simulated wear test (if applicable), the item is immersed in artificial sweat solution for one week, and the amount of nickel released is measured.

You are not legally required to have every piece of jewellery independently tested, but you must be able to demonstrate that your products comply with the nickel release limit. In practice, this means:

• Sourcing materials from reputable suppliers who provide certificates of compliance or material safety data sheets (SDS/MSDS) confirming nickel release rates.
• Keeping those certificates on file so you can produce them if challenged.
• If you use a material or finding whose compliance you cannot verify, having a sample independently tested. Several UK laboratories offer EN 1811 testing; costs typically range from around £50 to £150 per item.
• If you are a volume seller or use unusual alloys, periodic batch testing is good practice.

Retain your supplier certificates, test reports, and purchase invoices. If Trading Standards questions the compliance of an item on your stall, having documentation ready is the fastest way to resolve the matter.

Practical steps for craft jewellers

Staying compliant does not have to be complicated. Here is a straightforward checklist:

• 1. Audit your materials. List every metal component that touches the wearer's skin: wire, sheet, findings, clasps, chains, ear posts, pin backs. Check each one against the safe materials list above.
• 2. Source nickel-free findings. Switch to surgical steel (316L), titanium, niobium, or verified nickel-free alternatives for all skin-contact components. Many UK suppliers (such as Cookson Gold, Cooksongold, and The Bead Shop) stock clearly labelled nickel-free findings.
• 3. Ask your suppliers for documentation. Request certificates of compliance, material data sheets, or written confirmation that findings meet the UK REACH nickel release limit. Reputable suppliers will provide these willingly.
• 4. Keep a compliance file. Store supplier certificates, test reports, and material specifications in one place. If you sell at multiple events, keep a copy with your stall kit so you can produce it on the day.
• 5. Label honestly. If you market your jewellery as "nickel free," make sure every component genuinely is. A necklace with a nickel-free pendant on a chain with nickel-releasing clasps is not nickel-free.
• 6. Test if in doubt. If you use a material you cannot verify, have a sample tested to EN 1811. The cost is modest compared to the risk of selling non-compliant products.
• 7. Educate yourself on your supply chain. When buying components from online marketplaces or overseas suppliers, be especially careful. Descriptions like "alloy" or "zinc alloy" may conceal nickel content. Ask specifically about nickel release, not just nickel content.

Enforcement and penalties

Nickel release compliance is enforced by local authority Trading Standards officers, operating under powers granted by the Consumer Protection Act 1987 and UK REACH.

Trading Standards officers can and do visit craft fairs and markets. They may:

• Carry out test purchases of jewellery from stalls.
• Send purchased items to a laboratory for EN 1811 nickel release testing.
• Ask to see your compliance documentation (supplier certificates, test reports).
• Issue improvement notices requiring you to take corrective action.

If your jewellery exceeds the nickel release limit, consequences can include:

• A requirement to withdraw the non-compliant products from sale.
• A formal caution or warning.
• Prosecution, which can result in fines. There is no upper limit on fines in the Crown Court for breaches of product safety legislation.
• A product recall notice, requiring you to contact customers who have already purchased the item.

In practice, a first instance of non-compliance involving a small craft seller is most likely to result in advice and a requirement to correct the issue. However, continued non-compliance after a warning, or selling products that cause actual harm, will be treated much more seriously. The simplest way to avoid enforcement action is to use verified materials and keep your documentation in order.